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Entry IV of The "Azores Journal" E-Mail Inge
“Carneval” in the Azores - Personal reflections on living in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean
“CARNEVAL” season just prior to the beginning of lent in this Catholic country was upon us last week and to this woman who grew-up in the Carnival Capital of Köln in Germany there was no comparison. This is nothing like the Cologne Rosenmontag, Weiberfastnacht or Shrove Tuesday – actually I found it to be rather anticlimactic. However, you have to consider my heritage.
Unlike the festivities in Rio de Janeiro, New Orleans or in the Rhineland, this is MILD.
Yes, there was a parade in Ponta Delgada but instead of candy they mostly throw balloons filled with water into the crowd. People dressed-up in costumes and in the local town mostly the children were dressed in costume and busy chucking balloons filled with water at targets of their choice. There were costume contests but mostly the activities were limited to Tuesday, the day prior to Ash Wednesday and the beginning of lent.
This being the 21st century and mischief taking on different forms all over the world, some of the balloons were filled with ice tossed onto tile roofs and at cars – so most of the day I stayed put because I don’t need any more dents (purchased a used car with a dent in order to blend) since the streets are so narrow and a concussion is the last thing I need. While I am sure the native Azoreans enjoyed themselves immensely and the wine was flowing freely leaving many with a hangover today as well as empty streets and highways, I decided to skip the event and rather enjoy the sunny day in quiet and reflection while watching the ocean and the enormous waves. The forces of nature beat a Carnival celebration any time.
Having seen many oceans during my life including the Atlantic on the East Coast, the North Sea, the Mediterranean, the Caribbean and the Pacific Ocean in southern as well as northern California, I must say that this is no doubt the most impressive and beautiful ocean scenery I have ever come across.
All the oceans I have seen display their special beauty in different ways but NEVER have I felt what I do for the Atlantic surrounding the Azores.
From the first moment I laid eyes on it (and that was on the Internet no less) I was hooked by my favorite combination of steep volcanic mountains and cliffs with waves crashing the way I had never seen or experienced. Here not a day goes by that I do not marvel at the breathtakingly beautiful ever-changing ocean awaiting me.
Remember, being so far out into the Atlantic the air is literally washed clean by the water surrounding all nine islands of this archipelago. Each day upon awakening I open the inside shutters of this old farmhouse and look out of the bedroom window to watch the turbulent waters hit the cliffs of Caloura.
After a stormy or windy night it is exceptionally beautiful and both, my husband and I head for the various points to record with his camera what is almost impossible to describe.
Certain areas such as Caloura, Moisteros, Ribeira Grande and Reba de Peixe are more prone to serious wave-action.
For the first time in my life I watch waves coming in with the rising tide while the crests are being blown the other way. Coming ashore eventually with a force that shakes the ground we stand on and once they have reached their destiny turning a brilliant blue, they leave behind a white pattern a most talented painter would have trouble replicating.
Yes, there are magnificent beaches of black sand to swim at (the Gulf Stream passes by here) and leaves the ocean temperature a comfortable 18 degrees Celsius, hence the moderate climate.
For this reason swimmers, mostly northern Europeans or Russian tourists, can be observed year-round. Usually in the afternoon the same beaches are better suited for surfing, which is done regularly.
We never tire of watching and marveling at an ocean this alive and powerful. The other day I observed a very large fish enjoying himself riding the waves – a sight that is burnt into my mind because I had never seen this before.
Unfortunately this being the 21st century – the age of PLASTIC –
the ocean waves sometimes bring ashore flotsam and jetsam, a sign of careless fishermen, boaters or large transport vessels that most likely clean their bilges when nobody is watching. The curse of plastic has become a worldwide phenomenon and I bet this applies to every ocean in the world today.
However, sometimes you come across a treasure such as an old metal ball-shaped buoy which we have and which will grace our terrace during the summer soon to begin.
While the Azorean government spends a lot of money on cleaning crews who do a wonderful job, we as well pitch-in taking bags and gloves to pick-up unsightly trash and dispose of it properly.
After all, nothing is perfect but this is as close as it gets.
Wonder what tourist season will bring………….. I personally do not consider temperatures in the 60ies a hardship when I read what it is in New England and other places of the USA.
Tumbleweed
09/10/2009 07:23:09 -0700
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