Inge Perreault.com
Entry II of The "Azores Journal" E-Mail Inge
IT’S A NEW YEAR IN THE AZORES BUT LITTLE CHANGES …………
Well the Ano Novo celebrations were as low-key as the Christmas festivities compared to US standards. Yes, there were some fireworks to be seen. But mostly it was celebrated in the home with heavy emphasis on family – otherwise no big deal. Little seems to change and the Christmas lights strung across every street in towns and villages promptly came down after the Feast of the Epiphany.
Life has returned to normal quickly. The weather, though off-season, is delightful and I spent the afternoon sitting outside in the garden under the blossoming camellia bush taking notes for this journal.
After just two short months I have gotten used to waiting my turn patiently at the post office, bank or any other governmental institution. To be frank, I sort of like it – I am being slowed down by force!
There have been more invitations to “parties” by local Azoreans and eccentric expatriates who were most delightful. There we met some really interesting folks and an amazing amount of really nice and open-minded Germans to boot.
Last Sunday we attended a free piano concert of pieces by Mozart, Brahms, Beethoven, Strauss and some Jazz thrown-in for good measure, performed by two female Russian pianist virtuosos (four hands) that was exquisite, in the company of our new British friends John and Jane as well as a German couple who just retired here. We were told about the “fun” they had having their belongings shipped via container to their remodeled Adega by an Italian Company. Heinrich and Carmen have been coming here since 1997 and decided to leave the larger Munich area for better shores as well as more pleasant weather conditions. It’s almost sickening – everyone is so darn nice here and the mix of local Azoreans and expatriates seems to work extremely well.
The concert was given free of charge at the newly refurbished baroque-style theatre in the second largest town on Sao Miguel, Ribeira Grande. Not only did we have our own box, we picked-up a program for free cultural events for the rest of the year plus returned to see more of Ribeira Grande and the wonderful architecture the very next day. It is only 20 minutes by car from Caloura, thus the high gasoline prices don’t hurt you as much here as they did in the States even though this is the largest island of the archipelago.
While on that side of the Atlantic closest to the United States we also took a look at Rabe de Peixe, the largest fishing port on Sao Miguel, where we encountered enormously high waves on that day one could only marvel at.
So this afternoon, taking notes for this journal entry, I was sitting outside around a table made of an old mill-stone with the sky as blue as the ocean and flowers blossoming in profusion. Taking my chair out of the garage I noticed that our landlord had filled-up our bin with yet more “batatas” (sweet and regular potatoes), coracon negra (a fruit that is delightful and in translation means “black heart,” fresh bananas which are mini-Chiquitas but more flavorful, cebolas (onions) plus various other treasures I could not identify but will cook-up this week for sure.
The flowers continue to be spectacular in temperatures ranging from the mid to high 50ies during the night to the low 70ies during the day. Veggies grow while you watch and I am not exaggerating, I’d better start picking Kale before it goes to seed.
While I thoroughly enjoy the flowers I have stopped picking hibiscus and camellias (they attract fruit-flies like mad) enjoying them outside as well as the bird of paradise, calla lilies and clivias growing wild all over the place. So does honeysuckle in white, bright red and orange as well as narcissus, which seem to have naturalized somehow in the most unlikely places. Sometimes I forget it is January – easy to do and just today more German tourists with knapsacks crossed my way chatting amicably while heading for the mountains in the center of the island.
If this is off-season and the WORST, I can’t wait for in-season and the BEST. Maybe I shall venture to the “praia nudista” where the Germans and Scandinavians go after all – something to ponder.
One plant I have re-learned not to touch and to avoid is the stinging nettle (Brennessel) I remember well from growing-up in Germany. Now I know what gave me the rash I had two weeks ago which itched like mad and created little blisters! But that is the only plant creating any discomfort – none of the American poison ivy family etc. exist here nor do any poisonous insects, snakes or anything of the sort.
Should you be tempted to visit these shores, I thought it might be advisable to enlighten you about some of the rather odd customs practiced in this part of the world. My good friend Mechthild (they have adorable bungalows for rent at Quinta Altamira on a 16 acre estate that is heavenly) filled me in recently and I thought it wise to share some of them to spare you the embarrassing moments I experienced.
First off, I have become Dona Inge and my spouse Senhor Roland. They mix it up in the Acores. If a friendship develops or even acquaintance the proper way to address a person is by their first name proceeded with Dona or Senhor but keeping the formal way of addressing them, much like the “sie” in German. Likewise the older person has to take the initiative to suggest dropping the formal “sie” or “Dona/Senhor” to the younger person – otherwise it is considered rude.
Then there is the “kissing bit.” Unlike the French who air-kiss, Azoreans give you a hefty smooch first on the left then on the right cheek but only women/women, women/men and men/women. Some men tend to take advantage of that privilege but you catch on fast and
avoid the hug that squeezes the breath out of you by keeping your distance – I am a fast learner in this regard. Let it be said that this ritual not only applies to good friends but also extends to mere acquaintances……..so don’t be stand-offish or offended.
Going out to eat to a restaurant requires more finesse that to a German/American in particular might seem vexing. The first item you are being served will be a round of farmer’s cheese with a spicy red sauce on the side and fresh rolls – not an appetizer but standard fare and once used to, quite delectable. Next is the choice of wine, which is very good and rather inexpensive. Then ask for the specials of the day that are usually very tasty. If you don’t like fish served with the head, don’t order fish! Most likely the eyes will be looking at you and there will be a lot of bones to contend with, something I am personally not very fond of. Tuna, shark, grouper and other fish are available but unfortunately also polluted with mercury to some extent, even though we are in the middle of the Atlantic. Such is life in the 21st century. Pork, chicken and beef are delicious, free of hormones and antibiotics I understand and prepared well done unless ordered otherwise. By the way, don’t be surprised at several TV screens in the most exclusive restaurants with the sound turned off but that is the Azorean way. Heck, one might miss a good game of “fotobol” (soccer) that is the national past time and passion much like football and baseball are in the States. Azoreans are virtual “soccer fanaticos!”
And while we are mentioning TV – don’t be surprised either if the minute you enter the home of an Azorean the TV will be switched on. While this is considered rude in other countries, the technology came late to the Azores and it has become entirely a way of life to have the TV on in the background even at formal parties to obviously show the honored visitor that the family is modern and well off. So just ignore it, everyone else will likewise.
Once the meal arrives at a restaurant, and we have yet to order an appetizer, you will find a huge portion on your plate virtually hanging over the sides. Now this is when it gets tricky especially for a post-WWII German like myself who was early indoctrinated to eat everything on her plate. In the Azores it is considered downright impolite to do so and an insult to the chef because apparently you did not have enough and a second HUGE portion might follow which you will be hard-pressed to reject politely. So when my children or grandchildren come to visit they shall be delighted at NOT being reprimanded but being encouraged to leave something on their plates because the chef takes that as a compliment.
Do NOT complain because your vegetables are luke-warm or even cold. That is the local custom because the chef is concerned you might burn your delicate palate and would be very insulted should you complain about the temperature of your vegetables. Yes, it is a strange custom since meat and French-fries or rice are hot but veggies are quite a different aspect of the local cuisine. Mostly they are used in “sopas” (soups) but you regularly get corn, peas, carrots or beans that are at best luke-warm. Naturally I committed the fault-pax by pointing that fact out to the waiter. However, in our favorite restaurant he knows we are “weird Americans” and he has actually started actively teaching us Portuguese. Meanwhile I am continuing giving English lessons and tutoring ………….go figure.
Nobody will rush you – eat, stay as long as your heart desires and enjoy the congenial atmosphere. The desert menu will be presented and by all means, try some of the delicacies you have never heard about. It is well worth the adventure. Their flans and custards are excellent in tropical flavors, as are their baked goods to be topped off with a tiny cup of coffee (similar to Italian Espresso but also available in decaf which I prefer at the late hour). Most restaurants do not open until 7 p.m. and like in Spain people tend to eat late well into the night.
Once you have really had your fill (and by the way, Germans or those of German descent will enjoy the local beer which is quite good as well) ask for the bill. Unless you pay by credit card, be prepared to have change on you and leave a 10% tip – then get up immediately and leave. That is the custom; you do NOT get change back.
When ordering a couple of beers by the way, remember that they do not start with the thumb when it comes to counting if you give a gesture by hand. They start with the index finger and the thumb is the LAST. So if you wish to order two beers you hold-up your index and your middle finger, NOT YOUR THUMB or you shall end-up with ONE. I did not know that either and when ordering two coffees I was surprised to only receive one after having held-up my thumb and index fingers. Lesson learned!
Parking in a city like Ponta Delgada is another experience American citizens need to get used to. Instead of individual parking meters you have ticket dispensers which you drop coins in receiving a parking permit (distanced every few hundred feet, so you might have to walk a little) and then place it where it is visible to the police, preferably on your dashboard or on the front seat. If you do not, you will have a fine upon your return that will run you about 25 Euros and you will be in the computer system – not worth it. This is not only a cost-saving measure but also encourages you to walk a bit, practice your math and be back on time to insert more coins if you did not do so initially. The streets being as narrow as they are due to the age of the city need to keep a good system preventing double-parking plus it is good revenue for the police department. By the way, after 7pm there is no need to pay for parking any longer. We just found that out the other day after inserting our coins and getting the ticket since some friendly locals pointed this fact out to us.
Likewise look out for speed bumps to slow you down when entering or exiting a major city like Ponte Delgado. I promise you, they WILL fulfill their purpose. By nature Portuguese are fast European drivers not far behind Italians in their “machismo” (German drivers are not saintly either) and the roads being narrow and rather curvy have made my heart pump faster a few times due to who was passing me or coming the other way at the speed they did.
So far but for a few US “imports” of young men addicted to drugs which were exported swiftly by the US being Portuguese raised on American soil, I have not met a person I did not like. Since those young criminals are not eligible for sustainable social services it is just a matter of time before they are thrown into jail and transported off the islands to mainland Portugal – a worldwide scourge of the 21st century. In addition, the prison in Ponta Delgada accommodates a limited amount of inmates. At least we don’t encounter or hear about the daily drive-by shootings we used to in MA and other parts of the US we lived in. I hope it stays that way!
Guess what, I made a new friend today. The local donkey but about that next time……….
Also about the farmers market and the local fishermen with a special chapter thrown in on Lagoa do Fogo.
Ate logo,
Tumbleweed
Tumbleweed Journal" Copyright ©2006-2007 Inge Perreault - All Rights Reserved
The Tumbleweed Journal Reflects the views, opinions and experiences of the author.
2007-12-11 16:59:56 -0700