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Journal 13
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Azores
Journal Entry Number 13
E-Mail Inge
Here we are, three
years later and life in the
USA seems more removed by the day. My
opinion of life in this part of the world has only been intensified by once in a
while following the news on the Internet (we no longer own a TV) and being here,
on this peaceful, beautiful island you would never know there was a financial
melt-down or rampant unemployment or a health-care debate seemingly doomed to
failure.
Yes,
over a period of just three years it seems the entire infrastructure has been
renewed, affordable housing has been constructed and many old homes have been
renovated – how Americans would envy these roads, new bridges and beautiful
sidewalks…
The
beaches continue to be free, clean and provided with good life-guard service,
the air is clean as is the water, as a matter of fact, the entire island of Sao
Miguel has become less prone to litter in general, the removal of which provides
jobs and sometimes I just cannot believe how many “miradouros” (special points
from which to view a beautiful scenery) or picnic areas with CLEAN WCs
EVERYWHERE have been added. On any given weekend you see families en masse
putting fish or ribs or chicken on the provided barbeques, armed with blankets,
pillows, picnic baskets having a good time. Some have playgrounds for small
children, as a matter of fact I have NEVER seen a more child-friendly culture in
my entire life. And to top it off, they are well behaved! Kids can still be kids
and play with wooden tops, skip rope, bike or kick the ball around on the
street, fathers are doting on the little ones and everyone is crazy about
babies. I have yet to see a mother without a father present at the office of a
pediatrician – the company they work for gives them time off for those important
events and THEY carry the baby in their arms! Quite a difference from the morose
fathers I observed when last in New York City in Central Park which told me by
the expression of the faces of young husbands pushing the latest model pram,
that they would rather have been watching a football or baseball game on TV.
Thus you have a really closely bonded family unit – nothing is perfect (cheating
on spouses is not unusual) but basically young men make good fathers, brothers,
uncles or cousins.
Here
in Caloura where I live a talk to the mayor had great results – I simply
mentioned that being multi-lingual I had overheard comments about litter near
the very best hotels and that very same afternoon he and his assistants came to
inspect the area – it was SPOTLESS the next day and has remained such.
Well,
I did give him one of my business cards which might have helped and shamed him
into action. The school-grounds I see when going into schools to assist with
English conversation are spotless, the discipline is outstanding and I recently
told one of my teacher friends that were she to reprimand students the way she
does here, she would already have been shot in the
USA. THAT is why I teach HERE – was
her answer!
The
flowers keep blossoming in profusion and life’s rhythm has changed little if at
all. There is no stress, “amanha,” which can mean today or up to 3 weeks (or
whenever they think about it) would surely drive some folks crazy but if
something is of vital importance it is done immediately if not sooner. We have
just settled into the natural rhythm of island living, nao problemo!
The cows live happily
(as do the bulls) munching green moist grass enjoying the fresh air and ocean
views, so do the pigs and chickens as well as other feathered friends cluck
about, naturally fertilizing vegetable gardens. The only REAL change in a
negative manner I have noticed is the number of American/Portuguese deportees
who were released from prison in the States mostly from the South Coast of MA.,
only to be let loose on an unsuspecting Azorean population. Hence drugs have
entered and become more of a problem but in comparison to the
Caribbean the problem is quite manageable. Portuguese
Police keep an eye on them and at the first sign of a crime committed on
Portuguese soil they end-up in a Portuguese jail where you would NOT like to be
incarcerated. No cushy cells, no conjugal visits – no TV, this is PRISON with a
capitol P. The majority of criminals deported from the States take the first
flight out to Lisboa as they realize they are not wanted here nor do they speak
the language. What is happening is a “dirty little secret” because the
USA is running out of money for the
large prison population.
My
personal language skills have improved a lot, our landlord’s little girl has
contributed greatly to that and when my husband had a brief hospital stay (that
was FREE) the entire family showed-up to ask what room he was in as they were
going to visit him daily. That is the nature of the Azorean people, helpful and
accommodating, sharing and working hard, yet sometimes hardly working when there
is a FESTA of sorts. Wait, I take that back! The preparation for the FESTA IS
hard work and takes time!
If
you go into my husband’s photo galleries you can judge for yourself, nothing is
wasted and a “Boa Tarde” or a thumbs-up will generate the biggest smile you ever
saw. Pedestrians still have the right of way and a wave from one car to another
shows you the level of courtesy.
In the meantime we
have become known as the “Norte Americanos muito sympatico” and been accepted
into the local culture. This island being the largest, yet with a population of
over 150,000 means that often I meet friends or people I know in the most
unlikely places.
The new
Ponta Delgada
Harbor is finished and equipped with
the means to accommodate the largest cruise ships as well as a long promenade
that is lovely to walk along or stop for a beverage or an ice-cream. Another
promenade constructed with the small volcanic rocks in historic patterns leads
from
Ponta Delgada now to Sao Roque and is even lit
for evening walks with lights installed in the promenade itself. Alongside runs
a bicycle or rollerblading path and all this leads along a marvelous coastline
with views of the mountain Lagoa do Fogo. There are play-areas for small
children and beaches with handicapped access, everything has been thought of.
Beautiful trees have been planted as well as flowerbeds, all that in record
time. There is a plaque attached to an ancient wall, a remnant of an old ford,
thanking the EU for the financial support in creating the promenade.
This
year there have been fewer tourists due to the adverse economic conditions and
they mostly have been from
Germany,
Scandinavia and
Canada as well as some Portuguese from
the mainland. The British as well as Americans have been conspicuously absent
but as everyone knows, it is virtually impossible to keep the Germans from
travel as they are most inclined to “Wanderlust” and adventure.
But
with all of the ongoing construction, refurbishing of old homes and building of
new ones as well as schools and other public edifices, life is still laid-back
and a siesta a MUST. How civilized!
Past
Christmas we stayed at the Hotel Terra Nostra in Furnas which was wonderful as
the huge park was in full bloom with Camellias and Azaleas as well as many other
flowers. The Poinsettias were again HUGE but the winter was relatively dry for
the Azores and the beginning of normal dry season delayed a couple of months –
now in full swing after the tobacco has been harvested and fields produced
plenty as shown in my husband’s gallery. Some HUGE potatoes were harvested and
prices for fresh fruits/vegetables are lower than they were last year. We eat
plenty of the huge variety of both. Ever tried fresh figs with vanilla icecream?????????????????
Our
landlord surprised us over the past couple of months with several crates of
various types of “batatas” for which he absolutely REFUSED to be paid. I have
come to understand the Azorean culture better and know how it is a constantly
free-flowing exchange of giving and receiving without much fuss – just the
natural way of life.
Give
me a local farmer or worker any day; he will be more friendly, helpful and
outgoing than the (too fast) BMW-driving member of the “upper class.” It is a
shame that this is an aspect most tourists miss out on as mostly they do not
even acknowledge their existence. THEIR LOSS………..
One of my personal
greatest problems has been to speak Portuguese to everyone because they will
invariable answer me in English. I need to learn more and tell them so often,
asking if it is written on my forehead that I am not a native and apparently it
is – I cannot deny my German roots even now that my hair is no longer blond but
gray. Incidentally, after many experiences of a negative nature to my German
roots in the States, it never occurred to me that I would be more welcome
referring to THEM than to my
US nationality – you just never know.
Life is one big surprise and the journey, if left open, connects you
with those you are supposed to meet.
We
had to partake of the Portuguese Health-Care System on various occasions this
year and my husband’s experience at the huge hospital in
Ponta Delgada was excellent. The staff was most
helpful, the nurses there within moments and most conscientious, the physicians
most thorough intent to get to the bottom of my husband’s problem which they
did.
Leaving
the hospital after a stay of 4 days and a multitude of tests having to pay
nothing would be every American’s dreams for sure.
The
same applies to higher education – other than the books and an annual, quite
affordable fee, it is FREE; not requiring parents to take out a second mortgage
on their homes at a time when they ought to be saving for their own retirement
years. The way the medical system, schools and universities are funded by the
AVT (added value tax on a sliding scale of luxury goods not required for basic
living) instead of property taxes guarantees equal access to all, whether rich
or poor.
The level of knowledge
that is being demanded in the schools amazes me concerning
world history, geography, ethics, philosophy and languages would fall
under the curriculum of the first two years of college in other countries. Women
are excelling and making great strides in a basically male culture. There are
more female physicians and scientists than male ones attending Universities and
rising to the very top of academia.
We
have not returned to the mainland, just too lazy to do so and everything we
would wish for can be found RIGHT HERE on
Sao Miguel. We can watch the latest movies in English
with Portuguese subtitles but few are worthy these days, nevertheless we have
seen some excellent foreign language films.
The
students I taught pro-bono in Ponta Delgada at the Morada da Escrita have
improved and gotten the highest grades; something that truly pleases me. I shall
continue teaching pro-bono as long as I am able and find it most rewarding.
The past 3 years have
gone by faster than any time during my 62 years; one day blending into the next
seamlessly and the peace, serenity and quiet, the beauty of nature and the
kindness of the Azorean people render our retirement years most pleasant.
Hopefully there will be many more………………

 
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10-10-2009
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